'84 Sunline Travel Trailer...electrical..breaker box connections

quack · 06-28-2019, 06:52 AM

I'm new so sorry if this has been covered. I can't find information about how the breaker box should be setup. The ac and jeater work when plugged in but the outlets don't. Are there any pics? videos? showing how the breaker box should be wired?

thanks...Quack

Draughty · 06-28-2019, 08:18 AM

You may need to check the Ground Fault...some if not all outlets are covered by that.
John B. and others will have deeper knowledge than I though...

quack · 06-28-2019, 09:39 AM

thanks...the ac is working...I can hear the inverter kicking but no outlets work and no lolights. I believe the box is possibly wired incorrectly so I'm trying to find am example but having a hard time doing so.

Thomascine · 06-28-2019, 10:02 AM

Welcome!

Can you post pics of the inside of your breaker box as well as your converter box. Also, what is the model of your Sunline. Someone may have one and can help you better. Posting pics helps.

quack · 06-28-2019, 10:21 AM

its an 84 sunline...14 x 7...will get pics...thnx

mainah · 06-29-2019, 05:42 PM

Depending on variables the box may contain 2 or 3 breakers. Breakers seldom go bad, there is always the GFI issue in any camper it will kill a good portion or all of the outlets if it's tripped it is probably in the bath on your camper. The AC is not on the GFI it has is own 20 amp breaker. Your breaker box is a standard 60 amp home type 240 volt it is wired to work on 120 volts only at 30 amps it can except 4 120 volt breakers but generally the campers use 2 or 3. If you want to research the box be advised it is wired as a "sub panel" it's not the same as a house box. I'm not sure what you are calling a "jeater" maybe if you can clear that up it might help.

quack · 06-30-2019, 06:07 AM

jeater = heater...typo ...sorry...its a 2 breaker box with a 12 volt battery...only one breaker os wired at this point..I may rewire everything just to be safe but want to make sure the trailer lights for road use arent3affected....I don't see a gfi..I'll try to gst some pics...working all wknd.
.thnx

mainah · 06-30-2019, 08:09 AM

OK the breaker box has nothing to do with your trailer exterior lights they are not interconnected and are powered by the TV. You have a converter and a battery that powers the interior lighting. If one breaker is not wired it may very well the one for the outlets. The heater is powered by the converter or battery that leads me to believe the converter/battery works meaning you should have lights that issue is probably a fuse they are inside of the converter. With two breakers one will be for the outlets (15 amp) the other for the AC (20 amp). Messing with 120 volt wiring can be deadly hiring an electrician can be expensive finding a friend with electrical knowledge many be an option. If you can post a picture of the breaker box it may help.

quack · 07-03-2019, 01:09 PM

how do I add pics?

**JohnB** · 07-03-2019, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quack

how do I add pics?

See here for help on the pics

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f1...html#post86041

You can directly upload them "attach" to a post or you can "link" them in from a photo hosting site.

You can also upload pictures to your photo album that is part of your membership here. See here http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f1...html#post87945

You can then link your pics to a post from your personal album if wanted.

quack · 07-04-2019, 05:36 AM

pics...think I did this correctly.

mainah · 07-05-2019, 06:43 AM

It appears to be wired correctly not particularly neat but OK. The breaker is a tandem breaker it is two breakers in one enclosure that leads me to believe at some point it has been replaced and the current rating is correct. Same thing goes for the converter it looks proper.

quack · 07-05-2019, 07:14 AM

hmmm...why wouldn't the lights and outlets be working? I'm not seeing a gfi anywhereto reset or any transfer switch.

mainah · 07-05-2019, 08:41 AM

The lights and outlets will be on the 15 amp breaker the 20 is for the AC. Breakers can go bad but not real often your camper has seen a lot of water so it is possible the breaker is toast try cycling the 15 amp breaker. The power comes directly from your power cord to the load center the AC works so that means it is OK. GFI's were code in 71 by 75 they were required in bath rooms. In an RV they stick out from the wall because they are thicker than the wall studs are deep so this means there is either a hole somewhere or a GFI. The outlets are all downstream of the GFI it is the first thing that sees power. Your lights are a different issue if you have a battery installed they should work plugged in or not however without a battery they require 12 volt DC power it is supplied by the converter if the converter is not working it's probably directly related to the outlets not working.

**JohnB** · 07-06-2019, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

The lights and outlets will be on the 15 amp breaker the 20 is for the AC. Breakers can go bad but not real often your camper has seen a lot of water so it is possible the breaker is toast try cycling the 15 amp breaker. The power comes directly from your power cord to the load center the AC works so that means it is OK. GFI's were code in 71 by 75 they were required in bath rooms. In an RV they stick out from the wall because they are thicker than the wall studs are deep so this means there is either a hole somewhere or a GFI. The outlets are all downstream of the GFI it is the first thing that sees power. Your lights are a different issue if you have a battery installed they should work plugged in or not however without a battery they require 12 volt DC power it is supplied by the converter if the converter is not working it's probably directly related to the outlets not working.

Just FYI, I think mainah made a typo on "lights and" in the first sentence. Everything else is right on. The lights are 12 VDC, the outlets are 120 VAC like he mentioned in the last sentence.

mainah · 07-07-2019, 08:00 AM

Yes that was a little confusing my point it should worked plugged in via the converter. Older converters had a transfer switch they sometimes would stick in the wrong position I I remember correctly that would only produce interior lighting when plugged in even with a charged battery. Making the outlets work would be number one. Right now a voltmeter and the ability to use it would be first priority.

quack · 07-07-2019, 10:10 AM

new breaker...the converter is kicking...don't see any fuses blown. puzzled. can usually find issues with house electrical but this is a puzzler. My guess it there's something going on with the converter.

mainah · 07-07-2019, 04:12 PM

Where are you at this point? Do you have lights? How do you know the converter is working? The DC fuses are inside of the converter looking at them does not count a test light or a voltmeter is the only way you'll know if they are good or not other than replacing them. The only thing slightly related to the outlets is the power feeding the converter, with a single romex it is getting power from one of the outlets or a a"J" box somewhere if it is indeed working. The converter output has nothing to do with the outlets only the input does.

quack · 07-11-2019, 01:11 PM

stupid question but there would be a battery somewhere wouldn't there?

i thought it was inside the inverter.

mainah · 07-11-2019, 03:05 PM

Nope it's car size battery yes you should have one look for wires that are bigger than the rest of the wiring in the compartments or under a seat or something in the camper. This of course would explain no lights. When you find the cables that's where the battery goes.