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Old 08-02-2012, 02:48 PM   #1
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2006 T2075 front cross member bent

Does anyone know the proper way to fix a front crossmember that is bent? In June I hit a bad bump going 55 mph on rte 95 in MA, and I swear the whole camper came off the ground. When I got to the campground I found the fridge door open and everything strewn all over the camper. I assume this is how the frame got bent, but I'm not sure. It may have been that way when I got it. The a-frame is a 6" c channel, and it looks like it flexed enough to tear the bottom of the front crossmember where it passes through. The middle section of the front crossmember is bent and the battery box frame is also bent. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:25 PM   #2
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Got any pictures of the damage?
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:38 PM   #3
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There is a VERY long thread about bent headers on the front crossmember and plenty of pictures. Some pictures do not show but it should give you an idea on how to deal with it.

Bent front frame cross-member on '07 Solaris T-2499
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:50 AM   #4
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Several of our members attempted to have this problem fixed. I think I would do what Larry and Wendy did and have the whole tongue cut off and a new one welded on. Another member had less extreme work done only to have the situation reoccur.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:30 AM   #5
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Yes, I have pics, and I was wrong; it is only a 4" c channel that makes up the a-frame. Not sure how to add the pics here, so if anyone can help I'll add them.
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:26 PM   #6
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Larry and Wendy had the most extreme damage to their 2499 partly because they were forced to tow home from AZ to MD with an already bent header. The legs of the A-frame were twisted and beyond recovering. While their solution was extreme, it made no sense at all to redo Sunline/Lippert's inferior design and moving to heavier steel is far more cost effective than throwing hours of shop labor on a patch job. With a torn header and bent battery supports, you unfortunately have some significant damage. Do not tow any further than the nearest welding shop. A couple of pictures would be helpful. Also take the measurements that Larry did to determine if you have twisting.

If the A-frame is twisted, Larry's solution is probably the best. I'm not aware that Larry and Wendy have had any further issues and they also travel long distances.

If the A-frame is not twisted, you could straighten the header and battery supports and... My solution--recommended by my engineer brother--has now gone 4 yr. and almost 30,000 miles. I was lucky that my header only had very minimal initial bending that almost looked "factory" so I don't believe the header was compromised in any significant way and I did not tow again until getting it fixed.

With the benefit of hindsight, I'm going to go out on a limb and say, patching/reinforcing a torn header is not a solution. It simply can't contain the flex of 4" C-channel. You might be able to get away with also welding a much stronger support in behind the header--like a piece of 2" angle. But overhead welding is hard to do and you'll need a skilled guy to do that. If you need to replace the header, then Larry's all or nothing solution is the answer.

JohnB's probably camping, but he'll want to see pictures too and will put his more analytical mind into helping you with a solution. It is fixable...permanently fixable.

Henry
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:32 PM   #7
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We had the site next to Larry (minus Wendy, who had to work) at Buttonwood PA Meet and Greet in June. His repair seems to be holding up well. Maybe he will check in to give you guidance !
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:43 PM   #8
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Hi Barry,

Sorry to hear about the damage on your nice Sunline. Your 2006 TT frame was made from the model 2005 frame redesign on the 7,000# class TT’s. The main frame rails are made from a 6” I shape with a 4” channel iron header. As was found out mainly on the T2499’s of that series of frame, a heavy load from a WD bar in a turn or other form of high load to the A frame can bend the header, the battery tray and in some cases the A frame itself. The T2499 is one of the heaviest loaded 7,000# class TT’s due to the floor plan and the way folks load up to go camping. I know as before the T310SR came along I had a 2004 T2499 made on the older frames and that camper loads heavy up front.

It sounds like from your explanation that big bump triggered the high forces of a back flex situation of the WD hitch into the A frame. In order to help sort this out further we really need pictures to see what you are up against.

I’m in a hotel tonight on a Inet connection that is not cooperating. Traveling home from working out of town on Saturday. I would link it here for you but I cannot get to the Community forum where there is a sticky on how to post pics on Sunline Club. If you have a on line photo server you can link them directly here by using the mail stamp icon or posting an img command link right off the photo server. And if you do not have a photo server then SOC will allow them to be uploaded directly just they will be smaller in viewing size and harder to zoom on.

If you need help on the pic’s, PM me your email and we can exchange emails and I can post them for you. I’ll attempt to PM you mine if this Inet connect lasts.

The camper is fixable I can say this with a high degree of certainty. How far you need to go on the fix depends on how bad the damage is now. Take a lot of in focus pics and we can see how we can help. As HenryJ stated measure the along the bottom of the A frame rails with a straight edge or even a piece of string or thin wore pulled tight. Do the same thing across the bottom of the header. Take pics of this too if you can.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:48 PM   #9
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Hi John, I tried a couple of times to send you pics, from me computer, and from my phone. I don't know if you got them, but I will take more and put a straight edge on the frame like you suggested. This is really putting a damper on my camping. Thanks Barry
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:07 PM   #10
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Hi Barry,

No pics came through. My email can only handle 10 meg at a time. Send in multiple emails as needed, just no larger then 10 meg each.

Yes I know about the camping damper, I am now truckless, or at least in reverse....

John
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Yes I know about the camping damper, I am now truckless, or at least in reverse....

John
You can still go camping...you just need a pull thru spot!
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppy & Nana View Post
You can still go camping...you just need a pull thru spot!
I thought of that wise crack after I posted. LOL... You beat me to it....

Where there is a will there is a way. I can use the tractor to pull "The Camper" out of her resting spot and park it in the back yard. Camp ground fees can't be beat! Even have full hook up.
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