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Old 10-07-2019, 04:47 PM   #1
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2000 t-1950

I just picked up my first Sunline, Im looking to coat the roof since im not sure if it was ever done, I jusr calked all the seams , hatches etc. I was wodering whats the best roof coating for our roofs?
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:41 PM   #2
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Rubber roof coating

We just coated the roof on our 2002 2363 two weeks ago. Ours hadn’t been coated before but since it spent most of its time under roof wasn’t too bad, however, after noticing “milky” rinse water the last time it was washed, we thought it was time.

We used the Dicor EPDM rubber roof coating system, both the cleaner/activator and the coating.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-RP-CRC-...s%2C164&sr=8-1

This video by Dicor is step-by-step instructions and pretty straight-forward:

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Old 10-08-2019, 09:07 PM   #3
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One note: Dicor recommends that you hold off on coating the roof for at least a month after caulking [with Dicor] due to outgassing from the new caulk, which can cause bubbles and blisters in the end product.

I spent a chunk of the summer re-caulking mine, and am hoping the weather lets me do the roof recoat in a week or two. If not, oh well, a tarp will hold it over the winter.
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:52 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies, I was told by an RV shop not to coat the roof until it turns black. They said just treat it. It doesn’t look like the roof was ever recoated, it’s showing slight black spots though. They said the coating will dry out and crack in a year or two.
Is there any truth to this.?
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:55 AM   #5
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The black spots you are seeing, any chance of posting some pics of them? This can help tell us if you have a worn white layer or just mold spots.

I'll explain some on the RV shops comments, or at least what I think they were meaning. Rubber roofs have 2 layers to the roofing material. The top layer is white and the bottom layer is black.

The white layer is a shedding reflective layer. It helps reflect the sun and lowers damage from the sun's high heat on the black layer. Over time, this white layer sheds, meaning it reduces it's thickness. The shedding can be seen in a very fine white powder at times and white milky water when you clean and rinse the roof. Black streaks from roof dirt also run down the side of the camper when the white layer sheds. The white layer by itself is not the waterproof layer.

The black layer is the actual EPDM rubber layer. It is the waterproof membrane. It is also very thin. When this layer is compromised, then leaks will start.

Dicor EPDM looks like this new in the box


The older Dicor EPDM called Briteply, was 40 mils thick (0.040"). The black layer was about 15 mils think (0.015") the white about 25 mils thick (0.025")

Over time, when the white layer sheds enough to be totally gone, it starts looking like this. The black layer can be seen under it. This is "not" to be confused with black mold spots as they look different.




Also to note, the purpose of the Dicor coating is to restore the worn white layer. It is not to fix leaks, although it has some benefit to helping seal off leaks but not as much as it is not intended for that.

By coating the roof of a worn white layer, it protects the black layer from getting sun dried out, cracking and then leaking and restores the roof again.

Now to the comments on cracking in 2 years. The comment by itself has some validity, but it needs to be put in perspective. Did the RV shop tell you what brand coating they were referring to? They are right, some rubber roof coatings do crack in 2 years. There are a lot of roof coatings out there and which is the right one for your roof? That is a really good question.

By sticking with the Dicor products made for their roofing materials, you have a better track record of getting the right product. I'm sure there may be other good products out there, but there are also those that are not. And I have seen them crack badly in 2 years.

I have seen up close 2 Sunline club members roofs that they coated their roofs with the Dicor acrylic 2 part system. The results have been good and no cracking reported.

Now looking up the Dicro products, it seems they now have 2 kinds.

The one I saw, an acrylic coating,
https://dicorproducts.com/product/roof-renew-kit/

And now they have a new silicone based coating. Still a 2 part system
https://dicorproducts.com/product/si...-roof-coating/

I have not seen the silicone based coating myself, but it may need special roof sealant caulking due to the silicone coating.

A few tips I can pass along and have found along the way.

Before doing any roof coating, clean the roof, followed by a roof mold kill with a bleach solution. If you do not knock out the mold, you will be coating right over it and it will never go away. If you get to dong this, let's talk as there are some precautions on how to do and rinsing.

The 2 roofs I saw, one was brushed on, the other rolled on. The rolled on roof was much smoother. Use a fine roller to get the smoothest finish which can help dirt not stick as much. Yes, you brush on as needed on edges and vents etc., but do the large areas with the roller and smooth out any brush strokes if you can.

Before doing a coating, repair all the old caulking/roof sealants. And wait at least 30 days for the caulking to gas off before coating.

And if you are after the longest life of the roof as a whole, consider using Eternabond tape over the 30 day cured roof sealant. Do this before coating.

If you want more on any of those tips, ask away.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:38 AM   #6
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Thanks for all the info John, Ill get some pictures asap. SO you suggest using the tape around the vents and seams before coating? Or will the Dicor self leveling be good enough?
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:47 AM   #7
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While you are getting pics, take some of the caulking on the roof. Especially the front roof rubber to siding seam, the rear wall roof rubber to back wall molding seam and along the gutter rails.

I type some more later on the Eternabond tape.

FYI, do not walk directly on the roof. Use a ladder from the side to take the pics. Unless you have a custom ordered Sunline, most all Sunline travel trailer roofs are not rated as a direct walk on roof. They need precautions taken with plywood sheets and a protective barrier to be able to walk on the roof. Can explain that more later too.

Got to go now
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Old 10-09-2019, 12:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
One note: Dicor recommends that you hold off on coating the roof for at least a month after caulking [with Dicor] due to outgassing from the new caulk, which can cause bubbles and blisters in the end product.
We re-caulked all our roof seams two summers ago and then put Eterna-bond on all the seams which you can see if you look closely at the pixs. Due to being “under-roof” most of its life our roof didn’t look too bad (below is a picture of roof before coating). We decided to coat it because: 1) it’s 17 years old and coating was never done before; 2) the “milky” rinse water; 3) it’s no longer under-roof. We tend toward “an ounce of prevention” so wouldn’t have been comfortable letting the roof go black before coating it.
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Old 10-09-2019, 03:02 PM   #9
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Not sure if I attached the photos correct
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Old 10-09-2019, 03:22 PM   #10
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Some more pics
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:03 PM   #11
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This is what I can see.

The rear wall molding pic shows someone recently added caulking over the old caulk.The pic is close enough we can see the spider cracking in the white layer. I can also see the mold on the roof. This issue of the cracking started a long time ago. The only way to slow it down or stop is is UV protection. It is showing it's age being stored outside.


This pic shows the gutter rail caulking is very aged and deteriorated. This is an issue. This caulk should be removed is it so deteriorated and fresh self leveling Dicor roof sealant put on. We can help with how to do this.


I cannot tell the condition of the front seam. The pic is too far away. Need a better close up to tell. I can see the heavy dirt on the front seam. And from the rear wall seam that did not get covered over with the new caulk. I'll wait for a better pic before I talk to it.


This pic shows the non door side of the camper with the gutter rail caulking very deteriorated also.


Your roof is not a disaster, but it does need some attention. The biggest thing is to get the roof sealants in top shape before winter. Do you know who and when they added all the recent roof sealant at all the roof locations?
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:11 AM   #12
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The previous owner used dicor rubber roof cleaner and the self-leveling caulk on the roof.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:59 PM   #13
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Hi Mtr727,

Thank You for taking the time to get the extra pics. These really help.

These 2 pics show that the front wall to roof seam has a deteriorated roof sealant on the front side of the molding. This is a problem along with the left and right gutter rails seams. Odds are favorable the old caulking under the new caulking looked like this before the put the new on. And while they may have washed the roof, the caulking was not properly cleaned before adding the new caulk.





I'm not sure what the prior owners thought process was when they caulked the roof prior to selling it. There are all kinds of reasons and they can be very valid to their situation prior to selling it. I'm not going to try and second guess their reasoning. That said, your roof caulking needs attention before winter if it is to be stored outside and not under a cover.

I'm out of time tonight and I can't get back to you until Sunday/Monday. I will give you some options to think through/consider for short term and long term plan to help get your roof to a good place. And I will explain the Eternabond tape upgrade, what it entails, costs and benefits if you plan to keep the camper a good long time. And when a roof coating might fit in all this.

Do you have basic home repair/woodworking skills? I see you have no problem getting on a ladder to take pics, so that is a start. We can help show you how to do the work yourself, as long as you are comfortable doing it.

If you have not seen this thread, it is a good place to start. Rubber Roof Caulk - Inspect and repair 101

Be back on Sunday/Monday.

John

PS, Don't let this roof issue prevent you from camping, it's not that bad, yet anyway. Hoping you can maybe make it out this weekend. Having a good campout, helps overcome all the work needed to help keep a camper in top shape.
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Old 10-12-2019, 03:15 AM   #14
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Thank you, yes I am capable of doing the wotk. I just want to make sure it’s ready to years of trouble free use. I’ll be waiting to hear from you.
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Old 10-15-2019, 07:16 AM   #15
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I also found out the previous owner was getting ready for winter , that's why he caulked the roof. Then found a bigger b one so he sold this one.
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Old 10-15-2019, 08:51 PM   #16
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Hi Mtr727,

Here is the start of “one” get-well plan for your roof. This plan assumes you are storing the camper outside this winter, and it thinks you want to keep the camper for as long as you want it. Years’ worth, to forever if wanted.

For your roof plan, the first thing to do is repair the deteriorated caulking that has not yet addressed. These areas are the front wall to roof seam, (the part not yet caulked) and the left and right side gutter rail. Anytime now works that fit with your schedule before the snow and heavy rains come.

Note: Your Sunline roof is not a direct walk-on roof. You need to place a tarp, old carpet pieces, etc. to protect the rubber from abrasion and then use manageable size pieces of plywood to space the 16” on center rafters. I use 3/8 to 1/2” thick plywood 24” to 30” inch wide by 48” long. Take extra care getting on and off the roof using a good and sturdy ladder. Like this




The caulking in your pictures of the front wall seam and gutter rails is sun-baked and deteriorated. We will call these the three areas of caulk for ease of repeating all three regions. The caulking is dried up, cracked and no longer a good seal. It also has a significant degree of embedded dirt in it that needs to be removed before putting new fresh caulk down.

With the age of your caulk and the state it is in; I recommend you remove all the old caulk in those areas before putting the new on. You do not have to do it all at once. Do a section that you can get it done and new caulk down on the same day. To remove the old caulk, I use this method. It is easiest for me. Others may have different approaches.

You start with an approx. 1” wide stiff blade metal putty knife. If you have a grinder, dull every edge on the place tip, you want a small rounded edge all around. You can hand file it, power sand it, etc. The result is there are no sharp edges if you feel all over the blade tip. We do this, so it does not cut into the roof quickly.

Next is to get a heat gun. A 1,300 to 1,500-watt unit is good enough. They cost between $25 to $40 for an acceptable one.

Warm the old caulk with the heat gun. Keep the gun moving; do not stand still as it will burn the roof. You will find you do not need a lot of heat, just enough to soften it up.

Take your dulled end putty knife and lay the blade as parallel flat to the roof as practical and push. The old caulk will curl up. Try not to press down into the rubber as you can create a hole in it. And if you poke a hole in it, it can be repaired.

Once you have scraped up all the old caulk you can, then there is a 2 part chemical cleaning. You start with mineral spirits and a cloth rag. With cleaner on the rag, wipe/rub over the scraped areas to remove all embedded dirt and loose caulk. Do not let the mineral spirits soak with wet liquid showing on the rubber roof. It will negatively affect the rubber if left there soaking for 5 to 10 minutes or more. Once you wipe it on and clean with it, use a dry rag and wipe off the excess right after. Do 1 to 3 feet sections with mineral spirits at a time, then wipe off the excess. Then move onto the next area.

After you have cleaned the area, or if approx. 15 minutes have gone by, whichever comes first, follow up with the 2nd pass of high flash cleaner to remove any mineral spirits oily residue. I use naphtha, as it’s price attractive, about $12/gal, and it will evaporate off quickly. I get it at our local lumber yard. You can use rubbing alcohol, lacquer thinner. Do not use acetone as that will take off any white paint on the metal moldings and siding. I know the cleaners I listed are camper paint friendly.

Then apply Dicro self-leveling lap sealant caulking. I use Dicor 501LSW (white) this stuff https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/ they sell it on Amazon and other RV parts places. Prices vary.

When applying the lap sealant, you need to touch the metal molding and the rubber roof. The caulk does shrink a little while curing. If you do not contact the molding well enough, it can shrink back a little leave a gap, and there is not a good seal.

Here is the front molding in the process of being caulked. Do 2 passes on the front and rear of the molding and over all screw heads.,


The gutter rail


That will get you through this winter.

Next is what about the rest of the roof the prior owner did? From these pictures, it appears the preceding owner did not do the 2 parts mineral spirits/high flash cleaner cleaning. There is embedded dirt in the caulk in your pics.

This picture of your displays embedded dirt in the caulking around the roof vent. If you look up close at it and feel it, it feels like fine sandpaper. The other areas of your roof with new caulking show the same issue.


Here is embedded dirt on one of my project campers where the prior owner did not properly maintain the roof with routine washing, and caulking inspections, 3 to 4 times a year. Shown in these pics is 13-year-old caulk. It is still the original from Sunline.

Here is that same roof vent caulk cleaned with the 2 part cleaning process. See how white and smooth it is. You can also see all the cracks in it.

Here is caulking applied over an area not properly cleaned, and new caulk just added on top. The new caulk did not bond correctly to the old caulk. The dirt contaminated the bond. This new caulk was put on 2 to 3 years before I acquired the camper.


You can peel it up by hand


No heat, just push the putty knife into it and it comes apart the bond is so weak.




The black area/thick line next to the rear molding is dirt


A close up showing a contaminated bond from dirt.


In contrast, here is 15-year caulking on a roof vent when the roof was properly maintained, and a UV inhibitor (303 aerospace protectant) added 3 to 4 times a year after cleaning the roof.


With this, what do you do about your roof and the new caulk over the old? You may not have time before winter to deal with the new caulk already on the roof. The odds are favorable it will last a year. Two or more years is unknown. It all depends on how much-embedded dirt is in the joint. You have a few choices or combinations thereof.

1. Camp in the camper and see how well you like it. If you come late next summer and you want to hang onto the camper for a good long time, then work a long term plan for the roof and the other wall seams on the camper. (Camper wall seams is another topic and area of water intrusion. ) Ask if you want more on this.

2. Keep a good eye on the prior owners' caulk. This means getting up on the roof 4 times a year check while you are cleaning the roof and inspecting all the caulking anyway. Dig at some of the edges of the suspect caulk, will it start to lift? The unknown is when it will begin to lift; odds are favorable it will in time.

3. Create a plan to remove a section at a time on your schedule, take up the prior owners new caulk and the old caulk under it down to the roof and replace it with new until the whole roof is completed.

4. Think through how long you want to keep the camper. Do you want to consider making an Eternabond tape application to help stop trying to stay ahead of RV roof caulking failures?

5. Do the Eternabond roof treatment after all the old caulk is corrected. Consider these items before doing this. The sun damages all roof components expect the aluminum molding. The caulking, the rubber, the plastic, all of it. When are you going to replace these items from sun damage?
a. The shower dome
b. The black and gray tank vents
c. Are you going to upgrade a roof vent hatch to a fan unit?
d. Applying a roof coating to restore the white layer.

The topics listed in choice 5 surround thinking through when you want to and should do them before doing an Eternabond upgrade. This post will help explain the Eternabond upgrade.
Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics)

The Eternabond upgrade will seal all the roof seams. It gets away from caulking being the primary seal. I correct all caulking first, then wait at least 1 month, (can be longer, just not less) from the last Dicor caulk application for it to fully cure and gas off, then apply the Eternabond. You now have 2 good seals to keep water out, and you can rest much easier knowing a caulking failure is not going to creep up on you between your roof inspections.

This Ebonding can be installed in phases. The front and rear roof seam are the worst areas for leaks. Then the gutter rails and then all other roof penetrations. Since the tape goes over all seams, if you have old and brittle tank vents or a shower dome, it is better to replace them before doing the E bond tape over them. 10 years is a lot of sun on any of the plastic on the roof without using a UV inhibitor.

The cost of the materials for the Eternabond is approx. $250 for your size camper. Earlier this year I restored a 2005 T2363 with a whole new roof and the E bonding process on it. See here. This took me 3 ½ full workdays to apply the entire roof with Eternabond. This did not include cleaning all the areas first as it was a new roof install.


The next area is when to do a roof coating to resurface your white layer. Your roof is due for a re-coating. Since there are not yet large areas of white layer missing, you have some time to plan when to do it. I would estimate 1 year maybe 2 at the most. Sooner if you start seeing black patches start showing up. Before doing a coating, recommend you fix all the caulking first as you will roof coat over the caulking. If you plan to do the Eternabond treatment, then do that before you coat the roof as you will cover over the E bond.

Something I did not mention, does your camper have a leak in a wall or the roof that requires you pull off a corner molding? I mention this, as it is best if that leak area is repaired before doing an Eternabond treatment. It’s not a mandate, as you can still pull a corner off after once Eternabond is put on the camper, you just have to cut into it and repair it after the corner molding is on.

And before doing a roof coating or an Eternabond treatment, it is recommended you do a roof inspection for prior roof leaks. The backing board under the rubber roof would then be compromised and should be repaired first as that area of the roof needs to be opened up for the repair.

If you need help with any of these leak inspections, this is the place to ask. Here is a place to start. Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-17-2019, 02:03 AM   #17
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Looks like I may have a lot of work to do, I think I’ll get it up to par for next year and decide how far I will go after using it a bit, Thanks for all the information it really helped me out!
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Old 10-18-2019, 08:00 AM   #18
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Your welcome. Glad to help any time. Let us know.
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