Winter Camping? - Page 3

mainah · 01-26-2019, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinstaafl

I'm quite familiar with the different types of breakers; I do residential construction/remodeling, including all of the electrical work involved. Wire nuts are completely acceptable in situations like this per the NEC. Applied properly, they make an excellent connection.

I do agree that two wires in a single-conductor breaker is a bad idea, even if it was legal (which it's not).

NEC 2008
110.14 Electrical Connections.

mainah · 01-26-2019, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomascine

Here are pics of the electrical panel. It looks like one breaker is installed with both the 15 amp for the converter and electrical outlets and the 20 amp for the AC.

Thanks for all of the input.

Tommie

The breakers appear to be Siemans so here is where a tandem breaker comes in. Replace the 20 amp breaker with a tandem. Land the existing AC wire on one and the new one on the other pole of the tandem breaker. Yes you are correct on the useage the 15 is for the outlets the 20 is the AC. So before you head off to the store remove the old 20 amp and take it with you to match it up to a tandem then you can give the old one away as a birthday present or something. There are other ways to do this but let's make it real simple with a tandem breaker.

mainah · 01-26-2019, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enormiss

Looks like you can add a jumper and another breaker for your heater outlet install

Yes he could jumper L1 L2 and add a breaker but the knockout is for a double pole breaker so a blank plate and another breaker would be required. Every so often you find motorhomes with a back feed 30 single pole that actually fills a two breaker slot that is used as a main breaker.

**JohnB** · 01-26-2019, 07:59 PM

Tommie,

As an option, and if your shore power cord hole will allow, buy a 25 ft, no. 12 AWG (20 amp) extension cord. Many power posts have both the 30 amp receptacle and a 20 amp receptacle next to it. Plug in the extension cord to the power post and feed the end of it into the camper through the shore line cord hole. Then plug the heater into the extension cord. This requires no wiring.

Hope this helps

John

Tinstaafl · 01-26-2019, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

NEC 2008
110.14 Electrical Connections.

Not sure where that supports your point, or exactly what that point is.

Nevertheless, this is hardly the venue for abstruse discussion and interpretation of electrical codes. I'll let it rest.

Thomascine · 01-27-2019, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

Tommie,

As an option, and if your shore power cord hole will allow, buy a 25 ft, no. 12 AWG (20 amp) extension cord. Many power posts have both the 30 amp receptacle and a 20 amp receptacle next to it. Plug in the extension cord to the power post and feed the end of it into the camper through the shore line cord hole. Then plug the heater into the extension cord. This requires no wiring.

Hope this helps

John

Hi JohnB. I remember this from one of your posts and I did copy it. However, I had the heater plugged into the extension cord and the cord still got really hot. I'm going to have to pull the cord and toss it and maybe the heater as well. It's possible that maybe one or both are faulty. Just trying to be safe. I have another 12 AWG cord I can run. The 12 AWG cords are pretty thick so it's not easy to pull through the small space with the 30 amp cord. And the outside shore line hole cover does not close with both cords in place. Trying to keep mice out. This has been a bad year for us with mice. This is why I was considering the dedicated outlet. But I will give the extension cord solution another try.

Thanks everyone for the options.

mainah · 01-27-2019, 07:16 AM

Tommie I just enlarged your picture of the load center, what you have there is a tandem breaker all ready. The box will except two breakers, either two tandems or two singles or a combination the caviant is L1 and L2 would have to be Jumpered in order for it to work. I know this is sounding a bit complex and it's too bad you are 700 miles away it's something that could be done in less that a half an hour.

Thomascine · 01-27-2019, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

Tommie I just enlarged your picture of the load center, what you have there is a tandem breaker all ready. The box will except two breakers, either two tandems or two singles or a combination the caviant is L1 and L2 would have to be Jumpered in order for it to work. I know this is sounding a bit complex and it's too bad you are 700 miles away it's something that could be done in less that a half an hour.

Thanks Mainah. I thought it looked like one breaker but I haven't had time to go back and look again. I know a guy who is familiar but I am not going to bother him with it unless for some reason the new extension cord and different heater does not solve my problem.

Thanks again.

Tommie

mainah · 01-28-2019, 07:11 AM

I actually did exactly what you are trying to do in my camper before I made the "central electric heating"system to run a floor heater so I have an outlet under the seat now. I have 4 separate circuits in my panel. Having bits and pieces at my disposal makes life a bit easier. Here is something I looked at awhile back no fan no noise and minimum current draw. https://www.eheat.com/envi-high-effi...I-erYjdOQ4AIV2

Thomascine · 01-28-2019, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

...Here is something I looked at awhile back no fan no noise and minimum current draw. https://www.eheat.com/envi-high-effi...I-erYjdOQ4AIV2

Thanks Mainah. I will take a look at that heater.

I think I am still wanting to install a dedicated outlet. I am in the process of getting everything needed. With that said, what can I use to jumper the A and B circuits? I have replaced breakers before but never done anything with jumpers.

Thanks,
Tommie

mainah · 01-29-2019, 06:14 AM

A short piece of #10 wire is all you need there are two screws at the top of the load center one already has a wire connected to it the other does not so it needs to go across to the other lug. The box is a 240/120 box they did not install a jumper and left it up to the installer to decide what voltage was to be used. The jumper will power both lugs as 120 volts this will power the stab in for your second breaker otherwise it would just be decorative. It's -5 this morning if it warms up to + something I'll see if I can get a picture for you.

Thomascine · 01-29-2019, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

A short piece of #10 wire is all you need there are two screws at the top of the load center one already has a wire connected to it the other does not so it needs to go across to the other lug. The box is a 240/120 box they did not install a jumper and left it up to the installer to decide what voltage was to be used. The jumper will power both lugs as 120 volts this will power the stab in for your second breaker otherwise it would just be decorative. It's -5 this morning if it warms up to + something I'll see if I can get a picture for you.

That's what I thought. Thanks a bunch!

Thomascine · 03-23-2019, 02:57 PM

Finally! After a lot of cursing, got the 20amp outlet installed. Not a lot of room to work with. Now just gotta secure the wiring and then finish up the dual propane setup and I will be all set, at least for now. Thanks a bunch for all of the advice and direction. Much appreciated!

Tommie