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Old 07-14-2012, 07:28 AM   #1
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Water heater removal, new install

Figured I'd start a new thread, now that I got the AC in and working just great, it's water heater time.

Pulled the old Atwood 4 gallon water heater this a.m., getting ready to install the new electronic ignition 6 gallon Suburban.

Released the pressure relief valve, opened the pet cock, a bit of water came out. Stuffed an old bath towel under the back, unhooked the top and bottom lines, a bit of water dripped out, no problem. (I don't know how that bypass ever worked kinked as it was!) Turned the gas off then used the correct flare line wrench and a regular wrench to remove the gas line. Took all the screws out and boy, did the bottom ones come out easy. Gonna replace that bottom piece of wood - it's rotten.

Cleaned the flange up and test fitted the new flange. It will hide 3 sides of holes, but I will probably center it so it hides just the top and bottom holes and do something different on the sides.

More later. Taking a break before starting the woodwork!

Frank
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bypasskink.JPG (62.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg insideunhooked.jpg (75.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg correctwrenches.JPG (81.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg flangecleanedup.JPG (79.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg rottenwood.JPG (86.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg fittingnewflange.JPG (66.8 KB, 3 views)
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:51 AM   #2
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I should of waited 10 minutes and read this post before typing how to drain the system in your other post....LOL I see your past that stage. Good. Your gaining.
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:12 AM   #3
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Thanks John, I will be saving all the info you give me (and others on this forum) related to the water heater. I'm going at this just knowing how to do woodwork, electrical work, how to hook up gas lines, but that's about all I know. All this travel trailer stuff is new to me, so I very much appreciate the help, advice and knowledge!

Bottom piece of rotten wood is out, space is clean and ready for new wood. I need a 1"X2" piece about 14" long, will secure with stainless steel screws, and figure out the side build out too. Then it's off to Metals Supermarket for a look-see!

Thanks again.

Frank
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:06 PM   #4
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Next step - construct fillers

Needed to do the entire bottom, then fitted sides, then made pieces to attach the sides from the inside. Made eveything from the hardwood pallet the AC came on. Finish on the sides will be brushed 0.032 aluminum. It's better than nuttin!

Lost a couple hours today running to NAPA, Lowe's, Metals Supermarket, and West Marine, but still got a lot done.

Off to a street festival in Athens on the Hudson. Need a break! Will continue tomorrow by attaching all this new wood, then see about installing the new water heater.

Frank
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File Type: jpg undercleaned.JPG (86.5 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg underfilled.JPG (84.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg sides1.JPG (67.1 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg insdie.JPG (60.3 KB, 2 views)
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:08 PM   #5
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Water heater install

Boy, what a job! Got the new heater in, holes drilled, needed lunch before continuing. Getting the gas line hooked up was fun. Still need to turn the gas on, check for leaks, but I used quality Teflon tape and tightened the flare nut best I could.

Guess I'll radius the edges of that 0.032 aluminum hiding old screw holes, probably "brush" it too.

Now to see if I can figure out the plumbing. Electrical should be easy.

Frank
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File Type: jpg heateroutside.JPG (65.4 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg heaterinsdie1.JPG (72.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg heaterinsdie2.JPG (61.0 KB, 3 views)
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:58 PM   #6
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Bah. Bad leak, second qest/pex fitting in on the cold water intake from the outside faucet. First one was fine, so all I can assume is that I screwed up somehow on the 2nd one. Will get a new fitting tomorrow and try again. Plus it looks crummy on the outside, gonna need to fix that sometime, but not before vacation next week, too many other things to do. Don't even want to take a picture of it, looks crummy. Oh well, kinda like a wasted day. Still needs to be wired too, and checked for gas leaks.

Frank
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File Type: jpg coupling.jpg (61.4 KB, 4 views)
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:08 PM   #7
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Hate to tell you this now Frank but you should not use teflon on gas fittings.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:13 PM   #8
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There was teflon on the old one. Take it apart and clean? That's no problem so will do. Thanks!

Frank
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:12 AM   #9
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There is a yellow tape for gas--I believe it's still teflon--but quite a bit heavier than the white plumbing tape. I'd switch over to the yellow if you can just for peace of mind. The gas pressure downstream of the regulator is pretty low psi, but obviously the powers that be don't think white tape is as good as yellow for gas.

Henry
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:19 AM   #10
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I used the pink stuff - h.d., much better than white, but mainah says "No." I may have some yellow at home. So tape or no tape, that is the question... Have yet to even test the gas supply!

Finally figured out how to get around a leaking water supply line. Bought a new one all made up, very flexible and just a tad longer than the one I had lengthened to no avail. Once again, water leak test after work!

Frank
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File Type: jpg newwatersupplyline.jpg (99.0 KB, 0 views)
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:52 PM   #11
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Water heater installed and working!

And they said it couldn't be done...

Still need to tidy up a bit, mount the ignition switch, but everything works great. Sure is nice to have AC inside!

Outside still looks a bit funky, but will deal with that later!

Frank
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File Type: jpg waterheaterno leaks.JPG (71.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg switchwiredfortest.JPG (50.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg T1550withhotwaterAC.JPG (104.6 KB, 3 views)
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:36 AM   #12
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Frank:

Down the road you're probably going to want to replace your bypass line and eliminate the loop. You'll have to be careful that water doesn't stay in the loop when winterizing.

Great job on the modifications to install it.

Mack
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:53 AM   #13
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Thanks Mack. That bypass line was the shortest one I could find that was reasonably flexible (i.e., wouldn't kink like the plastic one I had). Maybe I could make one custom?

More to do!

Frank
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:02 PM   #14
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Hi Frank,

On your bypass loop, you can use the same hose, just need to route it different.

I'll try to explain in words. It you get lost, I'll draw it.

Right now you have both the top and bottom brass fitting pointing straight up and down. At 12:00 and 06:00 position.

Reposition those 2 fittings to be more at a 45 degree angle towards each other. The angle may need to be 30 deg etc, you will have to tweak it.

The goal is then to connect the hose and make a large down hill bow or arc in the hose. Start from the top, head to the left or right down hill at say 30 degrees. Then the hose will follow that direction. Make a large generous curve in the hose and connect to the bottom fitting pointing up at the same angle as the top hose is pointing down.

Then you get no pigtail in the middle and if the bend is a large enough curve, no kink.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:36 PM   #15
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I understand John, good idea, but not right now! 92 here in the shade, and I have almost run out of stuff to do inside the AC'ed trailer and need to move outside, get some stuff done. Need to install that white fence post above my bumper, move my drain hose, and use the steel bumper to permanently mount a couple scissor jacks, and also use it for the poles for our canopy so they're not sharing space with the converter and hot water tank. Almost there. Will bring liquid electric tape with me camping, and do that stuff while on vacation. Have a number of things that need it before we leave.

Frank

P.S., now it's 96 in the shade and as a result, I guess I'm done for the day. I need to remove the spare tire to do the new waste hose holder, and I'm not doing that in this heat. Other outside stuff can wait till this evening or tomorrow morning, or tomorrow night, or Thursday morning. In the meantime, here's some pics. My only fitment problem with the water heater is the bed platform hits the foam that surrounds the tank just barely. I will move the platform up 1/2", just not today. Otherwise, AC makes it a pleasure to be in the trailer in this heat, and the water heater switch is mounted and that project about done. I still need to seal the grommet the gas line runs through, but that's no problem other than just remembering to do it! You can see my new fancy water supply line also has a loop in it.
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File Type: jpg watersupplyline.JPG (102.8 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg bedheight.JPG (74.3 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg bedinplace.JPG (106.4 KB, 1 views)
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:50 PM   #16
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Done for now

This is gonna have to do, certainly got enough butyl tape in and among everything. Had to clean the excess off for the pic...

Great little Sunline trailer, now with AC and hot water. Now we need to save our pennies, dollars, C notes, etc. for a 3 way frig...

Frank
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File Type: jpg newcover.JPG (72.0 KB, 1 views)
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:47 PM   #17
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Frank - We had the same problem with the water heater in our 1985 1550 not fitting correctly. Someone replaced it before we bought it but only raised the bed up on that end. The couch looked crooked, and we felt we were sleeping downhill. Just this past weekend my husband raised up the bed and lengthened the support leg. When you are standing in the camper you cannot even notice the wood he attached. I just have to get in there and put some stain on the pieces of wood so it will match, but it's just too hot to do anything.

You have done a lot of work to your camper and it looks wonderful!

Jenny
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:10 PM   #18
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Boy Jenny, that is a great idea, thanks! I hadn't really thought it through, just know I will be fixing it soon. I have things i wanted to do before we leave Thursday, but nothing else really needs to get done at this point. The AC and the hot water install were the big things I wanted to get done. These 1550's are such great little trailers.

Gail got almost all the new curtains done too, but that job will wait till after vacation too. Pics soon!

Frank
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:09 AM   #19
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Looks good all finished there, Frank! I'm sure from a distance, it would be hard to tell it wasn't an original hole for the water heater.
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:02 AM   #20
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Thank you Jon. A true labor of love, given it was 96 in the shade yesterday when I was doing that! My first attempt failed miserably. You did not see a pic of that. But at 5 bucks a pop for the aluminum pieces from Metals Supermarket, I'm only out $10.

We're off tomorrow for our annual excursion to the western Finger Lakes for the Wine Country Classic Boats chapter of the Antique & Classic Boat Society annual meet in Hammondsport, NY. Hammondsport, at the south end of Keuka Lake, was voted one of two coolest towns in America from some travel magazine last year and boy, were they right on. We stay at the State Campground at Branchport, at the north end of the lake. It is one of the nicest state campgrounds we have ever stayed at, and has an incredible boat launch. The boat show theme this year is real old stuff, like late 1800's and early 1900's, so it should be a real treat!

So I'll tow the Sunline, and Gail will tow our 50 year old fiberglass Power Cat tunnel hull speedboat. Gee, maybe I can get that long shot I need for the forum signature tomorrow. Line everything up!

Enjoy your day,

Frank
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