We were in need of a new main entry step upgrade due to the instability of an added 4th step on uneven ground and to have a more solid set of steps. This post talks about investigation into the Tork Lift Revolution Glow Steps and our reasons for needing the new steps.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ler-18412.html
I’ll do the install mainly in pics to show the areas. This is what I started with, a Hickory Springs 3 step unit that was welded to the camper. They are not terribly bad steps compared to some of the new campers I now see. But they do have some drawbacks. These are the Tork Lift steps I am installing
https://www.torklift.com/rv/glowstep-revolution
The Hickory Springs steps
The welded approach Sunline used to mount the step system required I had to by the 25.5” wide Glow Step unit verses the 27.5 standard unit. The actual step treads are the same size, just the mounting bracket is different. The standard unit would bolt directly onto a camper step mounting bracket with a non welded on step unit. Since I had the narrow unit, I needed to buy 2 shim kits to space out the step mounting bracket to fit inside the Hickory Springs framework. I decided to leave the main case of the Hickory Springs (HS) frame intact in the event I ever wanted to go back to them.
The HS steps are held in by 4 rivets on the scissors section. I drilled out the rivets that where froze in place and used a 4 1/2" cut off wheel on the rivets that spun. The removal process went fairly quick. I can also reinstalled them if needed by bolting them back into the original holes.
2 rivets per side
And out they come
My camper floor height is between a 3 or 4 step unit that Tork Lift recommends. The HS steps had 9 to 9 ½” rise where the Glow Step had 7 ½” rise which is a more common house step rise. You can add an extra step or take one out if wanted and comparing the cost, I went with the 4 step unit and I would try it on the 3 or 4 steps to see which was better. I started with the 3 step. Here is a C clamped test fit.
The steps fit in the HS frame hole but they stopped short about 2 1/2 inches in depth due to hitting a cross brace in the HS frame. By hitting that cross brace it created a large hole on the top step in the normal position. There are 3 positions the steps can rotate out from the camper to change the step height. I did not like that large opening to be their most all the time.
I cut out the cross member to allow the step unit to go all the way back into the step mounting hole recess.
Here is the cross brace in the back of the HS frame.
And the cross brace cut out. I removed it so I can weld it back in if I ever need to.
I clamped the Glow Step frame back in and prick punch marked the holes with transfer punches and drilled the 4 holes. The drill motor just fit.
These are the 1/4” thick spacer plates they sell.
They have adhesive foam tape on the back of them so they will stick in place as you bolt up the step frame. This feature worked well and they stayed put until I put the bolts in.
Here are the spacers bolted in place. 4 on the door hinge side, 3 on the non hinge side.
Here are the 4 steps installed and stored for travel.
And the 4 steps pulled out on concrete floor. Complete with the shoe dirt buster
The black feet at the first step at the ground level can be adjusted down for uneven ground or to level out the treads by extending them if the back of the camper is way high. There is also 2 more downward positions the step mounting unit at the top can adjust down lowering all steps at once. The goal is to no longer need a separate 4th adder step that can become unstable given the right circumstances.
Going up and down the steps in the barn works well. With the bottom support legs there is no bounce like the original steps had. They are solid steps. The real test is how so they work in the campground with all the conditions we end up in camping. Time will tell and I will report back on how they are doing.
Thanks for looking
John
Linear Mode
