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Old 05-10-2013, 08:03 AM   #1
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Replacing fridge

Well, I found the yellow soot behind the fridge last night and decided to pull it out. Is there anything wrong with going to Home Depot and buying a fridge and plugging it in? Aside from capping the gas line, will it work?
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:55 PM   #2
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Sure as long as you are plugged in. You could install an inverter but depending on it"s size it maybe be pretty battery hungry.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:15 AM   #3
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Thanks. Replacing it with a correct unit is not in the budget right now.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:22 PM   #4
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Many have done the small dorm fridge replacement. And it beats dealing with an ice chest and soggy water soaked packaging.

Just make sure it is held in well and you may need to do something on the door to help from coming open while towing. Maybe some of the folks who have converted and tow can chime in on how they over came the door while towing.

The RV fridge has the double lock. The standard fridge does not.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:51 PM   #5
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We just use bungees on ours to keep the door shut. (Someone before us converted.) The problem is finding someplace to hook it.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:59 PM   #6
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Window sash locks. I my case it would be useless most often I'm miles from a camp ground (power) and solar panels, more batteries, inverters, or efficient 12 volt stuff and your into more then the price of a shiny new propane one. If you are the camp ground type it should stay cool for a good while until you can plug in again.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:48 PM   #7
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Most of my camping will be with full hookups. For the other times, I have a small generator that will do. Bungees sound good but I was thinking of a simple hasp attached to the door. The next thing would be trying to figure out a cap for the gas line.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:43 AM   #8
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They make plugs for gas lines.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:21 PM   #9
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You may want to consider replacing the cooling unit on your refrigerator. It is much cheaper than replacing the whole refrigerator and most come with a two or three year warranty. Several have done it in this forum. If you are at all handy it isn't a bad job. I replaced mine in about 6 hours. Check the internet for rebuilt cooling units, they basically bolt right in. If you replace it then you can go to campgrounds that do not supply electricity.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:36 PM   #10
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Here is one site to look at for "Amish" rebuilt cooling units. For an RM2652 it is $525 and $100 rebate when the old unit is returned to them.
www.rvcoolingunit.net
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363 View Post
They make plugs for gas lines.
Without towing the camper to a parts dealer, does anyone know, off hand, what type and size plug I need to cap off the gas line going to the old fridge?
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:00 AM   #12
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I would measure the outside diameter size of the copper line the fitting is on. With that they can find your fitting. Itgerwise I'd take the fitting from the old fridge vale that fastens to the copper line. The plug will be the same size as that fitting.

You may also go back in the gas supply line until it connects to regular pipe instead of the copper line. There you can disconnect the copper from the pipe and buy a regular pipe cap. Be sure to use pipe dope or thread tape to seal the joint.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:12 PM   #13
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A previous owner converted ours to a dorm unit. It has a little plastic piece that you push down on top of the door to keep it from opening.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:44 AM   #14
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They make child proof locks for fridges that just used adhesive.

We had a tenant put one on our fridge once without asking. They work very well and are pretty hard to get off...

Clip the gas line from the defective current fridge, remove the compression fitting and bring it with you to the hardware store to find the right cap for the gas line.

Dorm fridges work fine but have a shortened life (Especially here in FL) as they are designed to work in the temperature range of an average air conditioned house. Many of them have closed backs now with no forced induction over the compressor coils. Some minor modification to add a fan back there will help to keep air moving up the fridge vent.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starmadav5 View Post
Without towing the camper to a parts dealer, does anyone know, off hand, what type and size plug I need to cap off the gas line going to the old fridge?

If the copper tubing is 3/8" OD and is a flare fitting, odds are this is the one.

But check the copper tubing first and make sure the fittings look like this. The Watts flare plug I bought at Lowes.



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Old 10-02-2013, 05:20 AM   #16
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JohnB, Your package doesn't say on the outside what the flare angle is, but there are two different common ones. The one for LP gas is the 45 degree angle, not the 37 degree. Maybe a non-issue but it pays to ask for the 45 angle, just in case.

Edited to add: A long time ago, when I used to work, our company had low pressure and high pressure fittings. I mixed the two, a LP flarenut with 45 degree and a hydraulic male plug, 37 degree. The two different angles caused the joint to cut the flare instead of compressing the flare evenly. The connection failed. Not such a good thing since there are no safety nets for that leak other than a detector that is only after the fact and hopefully before the explosion.
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:16 PM   #17
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Yes that is correct but usually a high pressure fitting is steel a gas fitting brass. No matter what soppy water is a good ideal after the install.
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:53 PM   #18
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Jim, you are correct about 37 and 45 degree fittings. As mainah said the 37's are generally high pressure and used often in hydraulics.

In this case the PB39-P is a 45 degree fitting that I linked and I knew it worked correct. See here , direct from Watts

No. 39-P Brass Flare Plugs, 45ļ Flare Fittings, Brass & Tubular - Watts

See the models tab for the 3/8 size. A-159

Thanks for pointing that out so we can clarify it.

John
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:41 AM   #19
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Make sure to save the old door panel and pull handle (stuff it in the cabinet next to the new one) so you have the parts if you want an RV model some day!
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:53 PM   #20
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Discount rv
Offers a complete fridge cooling coil system to replace old $375 , 2yr warranty delivered to you. Allows you to keep all features 2 way system (12volt, gas/ 120volt) as originally functioned
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