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Old 07-16-2013, 05:20 PM   #21
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Boy was it hot today in the Commonwealth of Kentucky but that did not detour work on my project. I am slow but steady.

First thing today I went ahead and cut the paneling I had left over from the removal of the dinette to cover the rear storage compartment. All that is left is to put the trim to it.



Then I went ahead and started to dig out as much of the rot in front of the electrical box as I could with out getting out the saw and starting to cut. Thinking I may just removed remove the electrical cabinet, repair the floor and then put it back.



so then I started to cut all the linoleum out so that I could check the rest of the floor. The majority of the floor is in good shape. And look at the space I gained with removing the dinette.



Finally I got to the rear door and this is the monster rot that this project all started out with fixing. Going to take a little work and replacing som structure under the floor. But I will getter done.



Give me any thoughts that you may have for me.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:55 PM   #22
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Sadly, that's a typical sight that I think we'll start seeing even more around here. These trailers just start to leak over time if the seams start to leak.

You will find the cabinets are held in just like the dinette, from the outside of the wall. You could remove the screws holding it to the floor though.

You'll find it difficult to replace the wood under the sidewall, but it might be easier to remove the bottom strip of the aluminum on the outside to gain access to that area. Staples along the bottom edge should hold it on along with the fabric underneath. You'll need to make sure to attach the fabric again without tearing it, as you'd need a special tape to repair any tears in it, and it's critical to keep the bottom of the coach water tight.
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:01 PM   #23
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Thanks for the idea about removing the removing the staples and metal to get at the side skirt. I found the bolt holes and rusty bolts planning on getting new bolts to replace the old ones and definitely reuse the holes to help hold in the side skirt.

Today I have no pictures but I started with the jig saw a cutting out all the rot by the rear door. Have it cut all the way back to where there is solid wood. It was no easy feat to get this accomplished.

One of the things that I have found so puzzling is the floor joust are not layed out in no certain pattern at all. Seems that they are very random. Going to take a lot of scabbing and some serious reinforcement in order to replace the rotten spots with good solid wood.

Slow and steady will win the race.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:48 PM   #24
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SunlineKy,

You seem to have the skills needed to do this project......keep up the good work. It will even be nicer to camp in something that you brought back to life.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #25
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three tools I have found to be very handy in trailer repair are:
A oscillating tool: Good for cutting screws between wood and other things where a thin cut is needed.
Multifunction Oscillating Power Tool - 1.6 Amp, 120 Volt
Pocket hole jig good for attaching floor joists to side rails.
Kreg Jigs
Biscuit jointer for scabbing joists together or sistering joist together
DeWALT Heavy-Duty Plate Joiner Kit
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:14 PM   #26
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Sorry it has been a busy week and not a lot of time to dedicate to my project but I do have a couple updates.

We will start at the front door. The floor was a little week there so I cut it out and patched it with new 2x4's and new plywood. Filled the cut cracks with crack filler.



came out pretty. Fixed the weak spot.

Next up I removed the electrical panel / bedroom tv stand and replaced the rot that was under there all the way to the wall. Came out really good but I am going to get some spray foam and seal a lot of the outer edge of the floor board. This was a touch section to replace with having to lift and tug on the electrical box in order to get the new 2x4's in and then a solid piece of plywood down for sturdiness. Wrapped it all the way around the other side of the bed in one piece. Very sturdy now.



Finally I started on the major spot. The rear door. Was able to wiggle and worm new 2x4's all the way across the frame of the camper in 2 spots. Then braced beside the fridge and under the stove. going to use a lot of elbow brackets to lock the boards in place to the new stringer that I put in using the same bolt holes that the factory used. VERY VERY VERY Sturdy now. Working around the steel frame was very tricky but I got it. Monday I am going to lay the last piece of ply wood and try to get the laminate flooring started..



Like I said, it is going slow but it is definitely going to more sturdy and function to my use when I am done.

Bobby
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:00 PM   #27
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Wow, nice job!
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:05 PM   #28
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Nice work, Bobby. It'll be ready to roll before you know it!
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:56 PM   #29
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So today I managed to get the plywood by the rear door down today. Crazy cut but with some measuring and sure luck the patch feel right into place.
the picture is rotated wrong but you get the jist of the plywood patch and how it looked.

So you know I had to go ahead and try a couple pieces of the laminate floor. I went ahead and cut the 3 pieces that go in through the rear door. I am extremely pleased with how it is looking and how strong the floor is now. Tomorrow my goal is to try and get the whole laminate floor in place so that on Wednesday I can build in the custom storage where the dinette was at.

Wish me luck... Slow and steady wins the race....

Bobby
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:58 PM   #30
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Here is the picture with the 3 planks of flooring down in the camper. Forgot to place the picture in the previous post.



Bobby
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:23 AM   #31
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The job is coming out great! Keep up the good work.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #32
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Well good progress was made again today. Not as much as I had hoped to make but good progress is great. Kept going with the 3 boards that I put in yesterday.



but then all the complex cuts came into play and I ended up getting 50% of the floor in today.



Going to work on it again tomorrow and try and get the rest of the floor in and maybe start on the cabinets.

Man I don't think that there is a straight wall in the whole camper. Gets to be funny when you are making the cuts.

Its finally coming together and looking like I thought it would.

Bobby
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:18 PM   #33
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Looking good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SunlineKy View Post
.... Man I don't think that there is a straight wall in the whole camper. ...
Stick and brick houses are like that too.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:19 PM   #34
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looking good!!!!
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:20 AM   #35
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That floor looks awesome! Yeah, there are a lot of cuts needed... When I did a floor like that in my last Sunline, I tried to put it under the cabinets to make it easier, or so I thought. NOT! Going around would have been easier.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:23 AM   #36
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Wow, looks great!
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:36 PM   #37
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SunlineKY, Your floor looks great. I did a partial laminate floor in my 1950. The carpet was faded and had a black ring where PO laid the spare.
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:18 PM   #38
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Knees where hurting kinda bad from crawing around on the floor yesterday so I stayed away from the crawling today and started framing in the new cabinetry that is replacing the dinette. Here is a couple of the views of what I have framed in so far. Once again it is sturdy.

Here is a view from the front of rear of the camper (kitchen end)



Here is a view from the front of the camper (bed end)



I am in a spot where a decision is to be made. I have the option of putting a door on the front of the new cabinet or putting a piano hinge on it and opening it from the top. The storage will be split with a shelf framed in. The top of the cabinet will be used for inside storage and the lower is to be used for outside since is framed around the outside access storage door. The triangle in the corner is going to be the new TV stand until I can find a inexpensive flat screen/dvd combo to mount on the wall.

I am going to custom build the counter top out 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood with a 1x1 under lip then route a curve into the edge for the counter top look. Then cover it all in Formica, then take the left over Formica and recover the countertop in the kitchen area so that all the counter area matches.

As always open to suggestions and thought on the door versus top open storage.

Bobby
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:36 PM   #39
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Bobby, you are doing great! Thanks for sharing.

A thought on to put doors on verses a pivoting top, If you go the pivoting top route then when ever anything is set up on top you are forced to move it to get in the cabinet. This is not a show stopper, more a realization. The swinging door allow stuff on top and still get inside.

Both options are good. I myself would go doors on the side. Only reason in my case is with a large deep top loader cabinet, it seems what I want is always on the bottom... and I have to jumble it all up to get it. Having doors with some shelves inside creates an easier organization system.

Good luck.

John
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:27 AM   #40
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x2 what John said - I'd opt for door rather than an opening top!
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