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Old 12-28-2007, 07:59 PM   #1
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Looking for SHURflo Fan Installation Tips/Advice

DW got me a SHURflo Fan for Christmas.

I’m planning on installing it in the kitchen, replacing the current ceiling / roof vent.

I’m interested in hearing from any individuals that have installed a SHURflo fan or a Fantastic fan.

Do you have any tips or suggestions that may help me.
Or do you have any recommenations that I should do when I install mine.

I’ve read the installation instructions that came with the unit and they seem straight forward and I don’t think I’ll have any problems installing it. There’s a ceiling light close to the vent that I plan tap power from.

Though I won’t be able to install it for another 3-4 months, I thought I would see if there are any tips or suggestions that you would like to share with me from others that have done the same job.

Until I can do it for real, I guess I’ll just have to be satisfied with doing a virtual installation of the fan.

Thanks in advance for any replies.
Hope everyone has a Happy & Safe New Year.
Hutch
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:59 PM   #2
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Hutch

Is this the fan your are talking about? http://www.shurflo.com/pages/RV/rv_c.../911-724-B.pdf

I have not installed that type of fan, but I may be able to help on possible the hardest part, getting the old roof vent off that the instructions do not spell out

I had to replace all 3 of my roof vents on the T2499 right after I acquired the new trailer. Seems in 2004 Sunline had a bad batch of vents and the metal sides rusted out in no time and the plastic went brittle really fast. Fortunately then, Sunline supplied me 3 new vents free to install under warranty. So I have practice on doing 3 of these already.

And guess what I also acquired this year. Another 2004 camper. And it has the same problem…. Just no warranty this time. They are in the basement now waiting on a weather opening to install.

So here goes.
This is what mine started out looking like, Figure seeing these it will help you cyber think on how you are going to do this.


And another view


Inside the camper lay down a plastic drop cloth or something as stuff will come in. Take off the inside plastic shroud.

Lay out a canvas or something similar on the roof to protect it from abrasion. If you do not have a walk on roof, put some plywood up there to knell on. Get comfortable, rubber knee pads help…

Then get a tool of some kind to start peeling up the Dicro around the roof vent to expose the screws. Take a trach bag up with you. There will be many pieces of little scraps.


Once you get up all the Dicro to expose the screws, unscrew it. Now to the hard part. Get under one corner of the metal flange and lift. You are going to have to use a screw driver to get under it. Try not to pry as the rubber roof is right under the prying. Once you get it up a little, keep lifting one metal edge all the way around and work it up. That putty tape is amazing stuff. It will feel like you are lifting up the entire camper. You will most likley bend up and destroy the old vent metal flange. By my 3rd one, I was better at it but the flange was still bent to where I would not want to re-use it.

Then you will see this.


The next challenge is getting that butyl rubber putty tape up. Some times it peels sort of OK other times it does not. What I ended up doing was to take a brand new utility knife blade, lay it flat and very gently skim the top of the roof slowly sawing back and forth the putty up off the roof rubber. I never did 100% touch the roof, so there was a trace of good exposed putty tape still stuck on the rubber. If you pull up to hard on the putty tape try to dig in and lift, it will not budge but the rubber membrane will start to lift, so I stopped.

Be careful with the blade. Both on your fingers pushing that thin little part and not to dig in. This will work and not cut in the roof if you watch it. I did 3 this times. I hope to find a better way to get the putty tape up, but so far have not found a better way. Maybe someone else can chime in that has found a better way as I have 3 more to do.

Once cleaned up, putting the new vent on is a snap. Put all new putty tape on, center up the new flange. Even reuse the old holes if they will line up. Screw down the flange and then Dicro over all edges and the heads of the screws. Here to help stay clean and sticky free….use disposable plastic gloves. If not, you will have Dicor all over you and the vent.

Ends up look like this.


If I get to mine that I have to redo on the T310, before you do, I’ll post more pics of the process and if I found a better way to get up the putty tape.

Hope this helps

Johh
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:27 PM   #3
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I forgot to motion, take the screen off inside. Take handle off and the 2 screws and out it comes. If not you will twist and crack the plastic screen shroud when lifting up the vent flange.

See here a new cover for the 2 screws.


Jon, the putty tape is the super glue holding this thing down. That stuff is truly amazing once it is set on there. Still pliable, yet the stick and suction is unbelievable. It keeps water out and humans too….

Thanks for bringing up the screen.

John
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Jon, the putty tape is the super glue holding this thing down. That stuff is truly amazing once it is set on there. Still pliable, yet the stick and suction is unbelievable. It keeps water out and humans too….
That's an understatement! All the exterior things (refer panel, door frame, etc.) use that tape too!

Are those replacement vents Jensen? They look like Jensen with the crank handle style.

Jon
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Old 12-29-2007, 08:31 AM   #5
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Tom,

The warmer that putty tape is, the easier it will come apart when removing the old vents.

Two ideas: First, wait for a really hot day this summer to do the job.

Second, use gentle heat (hair dryer or similar) and do the job sooner. This should work pretty well as you would be heating the metal frame of the old vent. That will retain its heat well, and allow you time to work on breaking the seal.

Once the vent is off, you can also use the hair dryer to warm the remaining putty and remove it from the rubber roof material.
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Old 12-29-2007, 05:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
Hutch,
Only two things I can think of:
1) Make sure you seal the new vent REAL good. I know how roofs take water intrusion, and they don't like it at all!
2) Make sure the light you tap into isn't on a wall switch.
Plan and know about both, but thanks for the reply.
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Old 12-29-2007, 06:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Hutch

Is this the fan your are talking about? http://www.shurflo.com/pages/RV/rv_c.../911-724-B.pdf
Hi John,

Thanks for taking the time to reply with such detail and pictures. Your information and advice on removing the old vent will be very helpful.

It definitely looks like the biggest challenge of the whole installation will be removing the old vent.

I have the SHURflo Comfort Air Gold Series, which has ceiing control - not remote control (Installation Manual).

I wanted the Gold Series (or didn't want the one with remote & rain sensor) for the following reasons.
1. I'll have MaxAir vents over it - so don't need the rain sensor, plus I like keeping the vent open when it rains.
2. Ceiling's low so I don't need the remote.
3. Since I'm installing it in the kitchen I wanted the bi-directional capability and also like that I can run it when the vent/dome is closed to circulate air w/in the trailer.

If it works out well in the kitchen, I may install the same unit in the Bedroom and an exaust only unit (Silver Series) in the Bath.

Thanks again for the great input.
Hutch
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Old 12-29-2007, 06:15 PM   #8
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Steve,

Thanks for the idea of using a hair dryer. I'll try that. I don't think I'll be able to wait for a really hot day. I'll probably want to get it installed sooner than that.

Hutch
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Old 12-29-2007, 11:28 PM   #9
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Hutch

Hop in the truck hook up the rig and drive down here to Florida. Spend a few weeks or a few months fix the vent and then go back home. It has plenty warm down here.

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Old 12-30-2007, 08:42 AM   #10
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We will be interested in hearing how you like the SUREflo. We had a Fantastic fan in one of our trailers, and Steve wants to install one in our Tweety. However, I have seen that the SUREflo goes on sale, but haven't seen the Fantastic brand at a sale price ever. We'll just be curious as to how quiet the SUREflo is and how well it pulls air.
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Collins
Tom,

Second, use gentle heat (hair dryer or similar) and do the job sooner. This should work pretty well as you would be heating the metal frame of the old vent. That will retain its heat well, and allow you time to work on breaking the seal.

Once the vent is off, you can also use the hair dryer to warm the remaining putty and remove it from the rubber roof material.
Steve

Thanks for sharing this tip. I did mine during the colder months and I can attest to it does not come off well. I happen to have a heat gun for paint stripping in place of the hair dryer. The heat will be more focused and I can hold it far enough away to now over do it.

Since I have 3 of these to do.... I'm willing to try another approach. The utility knife blade worked, but was pain staking on the fingers and nerves to not touch the roof.

Thanks

John
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTHutch
[
If it works out well in the kitchen, I may install the same unit in the Bedroom and an exaust only unit (Silver Series) in the Bath.

Thanks again for the great input.
Hutch
Hutch

Not to talk you out of the Silver series, just to give options. I have the Max Air Turbo max, 3 speed, in/out control with T stat on my T2499. http://www.maxxair.com/Products/Turbo-Maxx.aspx

On this one, you do not have to remove the vent dome. I have it in the bath and use it in exhaust mode only. Crack the windows in the bed room and living area and it draws in like a whole house fan. I used the wall switch that ran the little mini high whiz fan. Sunline even told me they where heavy enough for the current.

On low it is quite and can even sleep with it on. On high, well it is high and you hear it.

Only heads up, when flushing the toilet, turn fan off. Flush, then turn back on. Then you will have no issues with tank fumes. And since it is in the bath, I only use it as exhaust since a black tank vent is near on the roof.

All these fans are good. Sort of like power jacks. Once you get one, you will always have one.

I have a new Turbo Max in the basement for the T310 just waiting for a warm day to go on.

John
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
Are those replacement vents Jensen? They look like Jensen with the crank handle style.

Jon
Jon

I do not know the brand, they came from Sunline and have no name on them.

The new ones I have to replace the rusted ones in the T310, are Ventline brand and look identical complete with crank.

John
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
I have the Max Air Turbo max, 3 speed, in/out control with T stat on my T2499. http://www.maxxair.com/Products/Turbo-Maxx.aspx
Hi John,

Thanks for the tip. I'll consider that if I decide to put a different fan in the bathroom vent.

Since the Max Air Turbo directs the exhaust more toward the roof, have you found on effect on that area of the T2499's roof. That is, is the roof under the Max Air Turbo vent discolored or more dirty?

Thanks for the tip.
Have a Happy New Year.
Hutch
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:38 PM   #15
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Hop in the truck hook up the rig and drive down here to Florida. Spend a few weeks or a few months fix the vent and then go back home. It has plenty warm down here.
Hey Nick,

That's a great idea - but I would miss too much of the ski season up here. I can't let that happen, right now I would rather be skiing than camping.

Hutch
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Old 01-01-2008, 07:19 AM   #16
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We have skiing it is just the water variety. I would be happy to tow you around with my boat.
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTHutch
Since the Max Air Turbo directs the exhaust more toward the roof, have you found on effect on that area of the T2499's roof. That is, is the roof under the Max Air Turbo vent discolored or more dirty?

Hutch
Hutch

Here are 2 pic’s to show what these look like on the camper





I have not had seen any issues on the roof with extra dirt or heat etc. The blowing air might actually blow away some loose road dust.

I do clean the roof about every 2 to 3 months so it could be I stay ahead of what ever could be an issue and not know of any problems.

The regular Max Air vent hoods have a pointed down louver and I would “think” they would have a similar affect if a Fantastic fan/ Shurflo, etc was under it bowing out if there was one. Just maybe not as concentrated as the Turbo Max with the fan in the end of the hood.

If this was an oven range hood exhaust fan, yes stuff would be coming out. But I can’t figure out when it is moving just camper air drawn in from outdoors from the windows what the effects would be. There maybe something, but I have not noticed it and I generally look for stuff. Maybe some one else has.

The only drawn back I have with any of the vent hoods, is cleaning. Dirt gets under them and from time to time you have to lift the hood and clean under it. It is a small drawback, but far outweighs not having the Max Air vent hoods or the Turbo Max fan.

Hope this helps.

John

PS One other tip. Spray 303 UV protectent on your new Shurflo dome when you istall it. The Sun's UV still get's thru the Max air vent hoods. On my T310, they had Max Air hoods from Sunline. The domes under them are shot from the sun...
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