Looking for a spark

[PTHutch]

Ok, instead of posting a modification to possibly create a spark of an idea in someone else, I’m looking for help to create a spark in me.

The situation that I’m look to improve on is the opening and closing of the bathroom gray tank valve.

Our 2005 T-280SR has 3 sewer tanks, Black, Bathroom Gray, & Galley Gray. Each tank has a separate valve. However, the valve for the bathroom gray tank is located under the trailer (a short arm’s length in) and behind the gray tank drain pipe, as shown in this picture:
.

It’s not the most convenient location and most time is difficult to open and close requiring you to get down on your hands and knees to reach the valve.

I’m trying to think of a way that I might be able to make opening and closing the bathroom gray tank valve easier and that I could control the valve from the side of the trailer (as the other valves), eliminating the need to reach under the trailer.

My goal is to come up with an idea / design to improve this that meets the following criteria:
1. Is cost affective (i.e., I’m cheap ).
2. Is easy to build & install (I’m not the most handy guy ).
3. Only requires the most basic tools to build & install (because that’s all I have ).

Any ideas and/or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Hutch

[Makers Mark]

Hey Hutch,
Just a thought, could you eliminate the bathroom gate valve where it is now and place it at the end of the wye, just before the tee to the main dump. It would require the bathroom tank valve to be open in order to dump the galley tank but it would put both handles right out front. Downside is that you would always have to dump the bathroom grey first then the galley. Anotherwords you could not dump the galley grey without already dumping the bath grey.
MM

[PTHutch]

Markers Mark

Thanks for the idea. I had thought of that. Still weighing the pros and cons of that modification. I think the 2006 & 2007 Sunlines that have 2 gray tanks only have one valve. So I think that might have been Sunline’s solution to the hard to reach valve.

Also trying to think if there’s some way I can rig up a leaver that controls the valve.

Thanks for your reply.
Hutch

[Makers Mark]

There is always the good ole awning pull rod. I use that thing for more things around the campsite. including pulling storage boxes and firewood out of the TV. In fact I keep it in the truck for an easy access to items. But then of course you would need a pusher to close the valve! In my garage I have an old shovel handle that I screwed a hook in the end of for a log of acess tasks )ie attic stairway puller). IF you cut the shovel handle off square and put a hook in it you could used for a "pusher" and a "puller"!
MM

[PTHutch]

Thanks MM, that gives me an idea I hadn't thought of.

[rich2500]

how about if you take the valve apart and remove the handle and have a piece of rod welded on where the handle was to make it longer,then reinstall the handle,looks like the valve could be turned a bit which would put the longer handle above the black valve then you could always put a slight bend in the extension that was welded on so it would be slighly angled out towards you.

[JohnB]

Hutch

Your right, that is not an setup of convenience.

OK the Spark has been lit and the fire is burning on this. Can we get some more field data to work with?

The wish:

Put a tape measure next to the pipes from the ground up in each pic so we can read the numbers and take 3 more pic’s. Need numbers from ground to bottom of frame.

1. Straight on looking on the 3” dump area.
2. Straight in from the back of the camper.
3. Straight in from the front of the camper.

With shots looking straight on and no parallax we can see what is in the way and from the tape measure we can see vertical clearances.

We can then copy your pic’s into MS word, draw a bunch of stuff on it and post back up.

I see 2 methods as of right now thinking on this a whole 2 minutes.

1. Cut pipe and reconnect things. This may even force new dump valves or parts of them as the fittings are cemented into them. Join the 2 gray tanks and only use 1 valve. The joining would occur underneath and eliminate the hard to get to valve and take out the Y down stream of the easy to get to one. Then add a Y upstream of the gray dump and join. This method may yield the most desired end result, but will cost the most for new fittings and such. I cannot see a draw back of having the 2 tanks joined as one. Us folks on 1 gray tank have both water mixed now. Actually if you joined them, you could equal out the gray tank capacity to where ever you needed it as bath and kitchen could flow together to find equilibrium.

2.Create a push pull lever system to add onto what you have now. Here is where I would need the other 3 pics and I can draw in something. The linkage will need to have a large enough stroke as your handles looks like mine and I think they pull out like 2 to 3” stroke.

You would need a hack saw, drill motor and bits and the materials I’m still developing pending the pic’s.

John

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by JohnB

You would need a hack saw, drill motor and bits and the materials I’m still developing pending the pic’s.

Don't forget to drain the tanks, especially the black .

Jon

[PTHutch]

Thanks for the replies.

JohnB,
We store the trailer about 10 miles away (homeowners association & dead restrictions) so it may take me a few days to get up there to take pictures. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of having the trailer home to access it daily.

Markers Mark sparked an idea of creating an extension handle to aid in opening and closing the valve.

I'm hesitant about tearing apart the drains and re-plumbing them. Though it has its merits and I think that’s how the newer T-286SR's gray tanks have been plumbed.

Again, thanks everyone for your replies, I’ll keep you posted.

Hutch

[emam]

I'm consed as to why you have two seperate valves for your grey? Did you have this custom made?

We only have one grey tank and one black tank. You could always get rid of the valve that's hidden back in there and just tie it right into the valve that's right at the edge of the frame rail. Then you'd only have two valves? Just a thought

Pat

[PTHutch]

Pat,

Our Sunline has 2 gray tanks. The T-280SR has the front kitchen with a seperate gray tank for the kitchen sink and a second gray tank for the bathroom.

The 2005 model (and I think previous years) came with a seperate valve for each gray tank. Staring with the 2006 T-286SR models, Sunline changed to only 1 valve for both gray tanks.

Hutch

[PTHutch]

Thanks Markers Mark and JohnB for the sparks.

Thanks to you guys I came up with this very simple, inexpensive, and quick to make solution to reaching the rear sewer valve.

I took a 98¢ eye hook and attached it to the end of a wooden closet pole.


The wooden closet pole is about 3 – 4 feet in length.


I take the pole and slide the eye hook over one side of the valve handle.


The pole now extends control of the valve to out from under the trailer.


Now I can open and close the valve using the pole as an extender.


I'll be able to store it in one of the sewer carriers, inside the sewer hose.

I use it, by putting one hand in the middle of the pole and the other on the end and I use it as a push pull lever to open and close the valve. Works great and it was very simple and cheap to make, just how I like it.

Thanks Markers Mark and JohnB for the idea.
Hutch

[Steve Collins]

Hutch:

Quick! Apply for a patent or copyright or something. Somebody will hijack your great idea and start selling them at CW for $19.995 plus tax and shipping.

[rich2500]

nice job hutch, simple but effective

[JohnB]

Hutch

Well that sure is about as simple as one can get.

Not quite what I had in mind, but a lot less parts and truley simpler.

You have what 2 parts? The broom handle and the eye screw

Good job

John