Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Technical Forums > Modifications
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-12-2012, 04:13 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
frank_a is an unknown quantity at this point
Fill a hole so it looks great?

I have a predicament that I figured someone else must have run into here at some time.

I have a new water heater coming today. Why I bought this Suburban model instead of an Atwood direct replacement is a long story, but suffice it to say I really want to install this and do it in such a way as it looks as close to factory as I can get. The unit I bought is a bit smaller than the hole. The existing hole is 12-5/8" high x 16-1/4" wide, while the new heater needs a hole 12-3/4" high x 12-3/4" wide. Obviously height is not the main problem, it's the width. I have about 3-4" to fill.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Frank
__________________

__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550

Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 04:42 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
jim44646's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,008
SUN #4040
jim44646 is an unknown quantity at this point
bite the bullet and return it and buy the correct one. It will look better in the long run
__________________

__________________
jim44646 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 05:05 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,274
SUN #1830
Jim-Bev-2363 is an unknown quantity at this point
Use wood to frame in the opening where it needs to be made smaller, cut the camper wall where it needs to be made larger and frame the edges with more lumber. Then steal a appropriate sized street sign, from a dead-end road, and cover the opening with required putty/caulk and number of screws. Nothing to it if you get the street sign late at night when nobody is looking.
__________________
Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
Jim-Bev-2363 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 05:54 PM   #4
Moderator Emeritus
 
kanyonkitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,289
SUN #17
kanyonkitty is an unknown quantity at this point
Frame in the new opening with a piece of that aluminum diamond plate.
__________________
Sunny #18 2003 F-344SR #8157
Sunny #19 1997 T-2653 #5485
1999 Ford F350XLT DRW Crew Cab, Long bed 7.3 PSD
2002 VW Jetta TDI.. AKA: Kitty's Kruiser
kanyonkitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 07:07 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
frank_a is an unknown quantity at this point
I think I have this figured out folks, but these are all great thoughts (except for returning it). This will work and look good too when I'm done. Always thinkin...

Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550

Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #6
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,144
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
You can buy white painted aluminum siding used for the house. It is flat, come 12" to 24" and it as thick if not thicker then the original Sunline siding. They normally bend it into shapes to cover wood window frames etc. You can line a board with it then caulk the edges as needed. The only issue may be getting a piece 1 or 2 feet long and not an entire roll.

Do you have a buddy who does house siding for a living? They have it and can get you a short piece.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2012, 05:08 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
frank_a is an unknown quantity at this point
That is also a great idea Jon. I have a number of ideas on how to make this look pretty now, and have figured out how to make it structurally sound as well. More questions though...

What can I expect when I unhook the old water hewater? Lots of water? Our water supply tank is empty right now and this old heater hasn't been used in a long, long time.

I wonder if rv places still carry this Qest plumbing stuff? I'm going to need some connectors and a bit of tubing of some kind that will work just for minor modification.

Thanks!

Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550

Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2012, 08:43 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
jim44646's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,008
SUN #4040
jim44646 is an unknown quantity at this point
Use Pex instead of Quest. I think Quest was discontinued long ago
__________________
jim44646 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2012, 08:45 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
frank_a is an unknown quantity at this point
While I will need a little bit of tubing, my concern is adapters or connectors to connect the Qest or PEX or whatever. Today is the day to look!

Thanks.

Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550

Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2012, 03:02 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
henryj's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 641
SUN #597
henryj
Qest Fittings

I'm not much of a plumber, but I can Google with the best of them. Try "qest pex fittings" in Google for dozens of hits including this one.

Henry
__________________
2019 F150 3.5L Max Tow
2015 Silverado 1500 NHT
2014 Arctic Fox 22G
2005 Sunline T-2499
henryj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2012, 03:19 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
frank_a is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks Henry! I got talking on the phone today to the guy that does the plumbing aisle at the local Lowe's, and he knew exactly what I was talking about, and said he has the stuff I need. He sells plastic sharkbite-like adapters/connectors to connect qest to pex, and sells short lengths of pex. I should know more in about 1/2 hour when I get out of work. More later!

Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550

Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2012, 10:37 PM   #12
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,144
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Frank,

On the water in the pipes, I'm making an assumption your vintage has low point drains on the hot and cold water lines.

Suggest this:

- Open low point drains
- Open all faucets
- If the HW heater has water in it open up the saftey relief valve to let air in.
- Pull the drain plug on the HW heater.

Let gravity do it's thing. Once the running water stops, if you have an air compressor screw in a fitting in the city water connection, garden hose to NPT, regulate your pressure down to 40 psi.

Close faucets at the start of this and blow out the water lines. Burp the faucets.

If you have no low point drains and no water in the HW heater as it was valved off, then just blow out up into the sinks.

This will get the majority of the water out. Then when you unhook the lines, just crack them loose first, have a cookie tray or something thin under then and unhook.

It should not be that bad if your try and drain it first.

Hope this helps and good luck

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2012, 04:07 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
frank_a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
frank_a is an unknown quantity at this point
Low point drains would be under the coach John? I think there is one under the water tank under the stove in the kitchen.

Safety relief valve? Would it be labeled?

Drain plug on the heater itself? Under the coach or?

I would need a fitting to blow it out, and have never tried to regulate my air. I'll have to take a look this morning, see how I do that, or if I have to buy something.

This is really very helpful John. Now that the AC is done and finished and working great, hot water is next. Soon as it gets light out I'll be out checking it out. We have been blessed with a nice steady rainfall we really needed, but I don't mind!

Thanks!

Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550

Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
frank_a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2012, 07:44 AM   #14
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,144
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Frank,

The blow out plug, I made one but they actually sell these at the camping stores.

Here is mine


Here is one of the commercial ones. It has a tire air valve on it that make you have to hold the air chuck on it all the time. That is a draw back but it is cheap.
Blow-out Plug - Camco RV 36104 - Winterizing - Camping World

Since I drink from the fresh water system I take special precautions to keep the system clean all the time from the last chlorine shock treatment (sanitize). So I double filter the compressed air.

Here is the city water hook up on my prior camper


You really do not need or want to use a lot of air pressure much over 50psi. 40 is enough. If you used 75 or real high you may find leaks you did not know you had before...LOL.

The hot water heater, I lost track of why you are replacing. If it does not work or a split tank. If the tank is intact and filled with water, for sure you need to drain it. Or 4 gallons will be going somewhere.

This is a newer model and an Atwood. Here is where the drain plug would be. I'm back flushing it here for spring cleaning to get left over sediment out from water minerals and calcium


Here is a pic of yours
The safety relief is at the 11" mark just above the ruler. It had a manual lift handle on it. Lift it. It overrides the spring and lets air in. And water out so make sure you open all the faucets to bleed out the pressure before lifting.

The drain plug is buried under the left bottom side of the gas valve. Sort of behind the big red gas knob



I do not know where your 2 low point drains are in your floor plan. The hot and cold are usually right next to each other, in a cabinet some where down on the floor, with valves that have drain pipes poke out through the floor. Go under the camper and look for then to stick out , then go in and find them in side.

Once you install the new HW heater you will need to re-sanitize the system as you installed all this new plumbing.

You are also going to need to learn this draining procedure for frost protection in the winter. You can pump the food grade anti freeze through or use the air blow method or both.

Hope this helps

John

__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hole (rip) in the under aluminum frank_a Modifications 4 07-04-2012 03:13 PM
Do you use a water filter to fill the camper? JohnB Sunline Community 7 08-05-2011 03:36 PM
Receiver hole on f-150 tow and go buck468 Towing and Tow Vehicles 6 05-17-2010 10:19 PM
How to fix a hole in the Fridge liner? dg&scooter Repairs and Maintenance 3 03-07-2010 07:27 PM
Fixing a Hole in Bedroom Door campin'dude Repairs and Maintenance 13 09-28-2007 07:35 PM


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:00 PM.


×