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Old 10-11-2010, 07:21 PM   #1
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Workweek at the Camper

Okay, so I have 4 days at the 88 Seville camper this week and a list of projects longer than both arms! I am hoping you wonderful experienced Sunliners will give me a few tips on a couple of my projects.

Here goes:

1. I need to work on the doors. The bottoms have rotted out and I need to pull them off and repair them. Anybody done this? I'm taking 2x2's up to rework the frame. Any specific tools ( I have all the general tools) or supplies I need to take with me?

2. I need to re weather strip the windows...nobody has the 1/2 inch or so vee with edges "-v-"molding that fits around these windows. I am thinking of using the malleable gray weather striping ( like plumbers putty) that comes in rolls Any help/ ideas ?

Thanks folks!
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:48 PM   #2
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Hi Drake,

1: Absolutely. It's a common problem before they went to aluminum frames, which was about in 1997/1998 I believe. I can't think of anything specific you'd need other than lots of clamps. Maybe a couple pieces of plywood too to make an even sandwich. I've found it's easiest to take the door off and put it on a table. Don't try to take the hinge apart, just unscrew the door from the hinge. The aluminum frame just unscrews and pulls off in pieces, it's nothing really special. Then your wood (or what's left...) should be exposed. The plastic is glued to both sides, so you will need to peel that back carefully a little. I'd almost suggest doing that with the inside plastic, that way if you crack it and have to replace it, it won't be a big deal and you won't lose your matching color and striping. Depending on how bad the rot is, you may need to cut some of the side pieces off and replace them, in that case you'll need to cut back some of the styrofoam to find in some blocks to make the joint behind there.

These doors leave a lot to be desired, and there's plenty of room for improvement. I've added to mine when doing this, you can if you want, it really won't add much weight (even though that really doesn't matter for you). I've added just a center cross brace across the door to strengthen by the handle. I suppose you could do like a criss-crossing barn door type effect too.

2: Hmm, never had this question before. Not exactly sure of the seal you are talking about, but maybe you could contact Hehr, the window manufacturer? Maybe they could sell you a roll of the seal? They haven't changed the windows much over the years, so I'd think they'd have what you need still.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:35 AM   #3
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Hi Drake,

I have done some of these repairs myself. The bottom of the door in my 1987 T2251 was rotted out as well. I used a pressure treated deck spindle to refurbish the framing and then screwed in a standard door theshold with rubber weatherstripping on the bottom. I'll try to remember to take some pictures and post them for your reference. I also have the old Hehr windows. Here is a link to a site that sells alot of the weatherstripping you could use but it is expensive. It sounds like you are looking for the Hehr 4900 Bottom Vent Seal. It sells for $1.34/foot.
RV Parts, RV Accessories, Custom RV Parts @ All Rite Custom Manufacturing - Window Parts

You can find the window putty fairly easily. I bought some on ebay. I think it was a 50ft roll for about $20. I removed a few of the windows and put in the new putty where it was getting really dry. I also sealed around them with clear RV caulk and replaced all the old rusty screws.

I also have used some common household weatherstripping to seal up my front window from driving rain while towing.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:34 AM   #4
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Hey, Thanks guys! I appreciate the advice. I have some of those deck spindles on hand. Yep, that window stuff is expensive....actually, I don't see what I need in this listing. The molding I need is very flexible, to go round the curves of the window, and the shape is like if you took a small, shallow c laid it on its open front, then connected a small shallow c facing with the open front to the sky to each end point of the c facing down. Perhaps this was molded at the factory, and this type of molding does not come in flexible molding??

The big problem with the putty weatherstripping is that I'm thinking it won't look too good. Whatever the case it needs to be done, and if the putty will work, then I will use it.
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:55 PM   #5
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Drake, one thing I forgot to mention is you should put some silicone on the joint where the bubbled plastic door panel meets the aluminum frame, on the bottom in particular. The water got in there in the first place by sneaking between those bubbles, so sealing it there will prevent it from getting back in.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:51 PM   #6
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Jon, If I can get those doors apart, you can bet there will be enough caulk inside, under, and around those rascals to up seal a battleship!
Thanks so much!!!
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