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Old 11-27-2011, 02:18 PM   #1
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Applying stripes

I received my striping from Jan and Dave King a few days ago (thanks for the tip Kitty and Gary!) and will be installing them as the weather permits. Has anyone ever done this? All I see online are instructions for applying to a flat surface like fiberglass, but I don't have that option. As many here know, I had renovated my 92 Solaris with the 2007 stripe theme and had to closely approximate it with paint.That was quite a masking and spraying process and I consider myself very fortunate to have the actual striping now. The paint, after a few years has begun to peel off with the old striping that was such a pain to remove I left it. I'm hoping the 3M "eraser wheel" l I ordered will get it off this time.
I doing it this way should be an adventure. I'll document it with pictures as I go, but again, if anyone has any tips from having done it already, I'd like to hear it!
Thanks,
Rich
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:55 PM   #2
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The original stripes were applied on the aluminum while still flat and then it was crimped into the design it is in now.

I've never done striping before, on an uneven surface like that.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:22 PM   #3
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Neither have I Jon, but I like a challenge!
Rich
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:16 PM   #4
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In the past I have pin striped lots of cars, but like Jon said, never a bumpy surface.

Maybe if you could somehow make a jig, or Gary suggested a really stiff brush
.

Good Luck, please keep us posted


Kitty
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:27 PM   #5
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Yes, I've applied pinstripes and graphics to cars and trucks too, so this will be different. I'm hoping that, since the striping is available (for as long as it lasts anyway) others will benefit from finding out what NOT to do as I'm sure I'll find that out along the way. Sooner or later, someone's going to need to restripe at least some of their Sunline.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:56 PM   #6
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Rich,

I too have some of that pin strip, and from the same source.... but have not yet applied.

Here are some things to think through.

I did replace my large rear "Sunline" now about 2 years ago. The siding on the top rear of the trailer is segmented and curved slightly. When I put it on I tried real hard to make it flow right to the end of the curve before the crease and start of the next curve. This year I can see it starting to lift at that creased area. What I suspect is happening is the decal is shrinking and as such it is pulling away in that area. Now I have to figure out what to do with it... or how to prevent it even if I put another one on.

After seeing this the side pin strip may be more of a challenge. As Sunline Fan stated at the factory Sunline put that strip on flat aluminum and then ran it through a forming roll to create the rippled pattern. That rolling action created a perfect pressure adhesion process of the decal to the aluminum.

The question now is, how can we get that decal over all those curves and for that length of the camper?

The Poppy part of Nana and Poppy use to do a lot of decal work. Maybe he can shed some light on this for us. Kathy, can you ask Leo if he has any words of wisdom on how to do this?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:58 PM   #7
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Rich,

It is possible to put on striping or other vinyl or similar materials to surfaces using a wet method. This allows the object to be precisely positioned.

The method is pretty simple. Mix up a solution of soap and water. (The craftsman I learned this from recommended using a very simple soap without a lot of additives.) After thoroughly cleaning the surface, apply the soapy solution (a spray bottle works great) liberally and then roughly position your sticker and apply it. Since there is a layer of soapy water under the sticker, it can be easily moved about to precisely position it as needed.

Once you've got it where you want it, it is time to work the soapy water out from under the sticker. First use a damp sponge, working from the center to the outside edges. When most of the solution is gone, on smooth surfaces, a brayer (rubber roller) works great to finish getting the rest of the liquid out. (I've also done this with a smooth plastic flat edge instead of a roller.) Work from the center to the outside edges in all directions. Air bubbles can be easily pushed to the edge while there is still liquid under the sticker. Eventually, the water will be totally gone from behind the sticker.

At this point, let the whole thing dry for at least 24 hours, preferably in a warm, low humidity environment.

I have successfully used this method to apply large and small emblems and lettering to a wide variety of vehicles. Probably the most demanding were ambulances, but properly done, the work held up for at least 10 years.

One thing we did with many of these applications was to clear coat the entire sticker, overlapping the edges onto the painted surface. Here in the northeast with all the road salt in the winter, the extra protection prevents damage from starting.
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
The question now is, how can we get that decal over all those curves and for that length of the camper?

The Poppy part of Nana and Poppy use to do a lot of decal work. Maybe he can shed some light on this for us. Kathy, can you ask Leo if he has any words of wisdom on how to do this?
I am pretty certain Leo is going to recommend the wet method, too. (We've had this conversation before... )
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Collins View Post
I am pretty certain Leo is going to recommend the wet method, too. (We've had this conversation before... )
Yup Leo said what Steve said!!!!
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:41 PM   #10
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Thanks for the tips Steve! Yes, I think the wet method is the only way to go in this situation.
John, I also applied those decals to that upper siding onthe rear of my trailer and the same thing has happened; it lifts in the valleys. Everything else still looks good after a few years, but eventually, I'm sure with the sun here in Maryland, it will start lifting at the edges. I think you are right that the film shrinks and pulls away from the low points and I doubt anything will prevent that as long as it's exposed to any heat. I do wax my decals, but I was thinking maybe they need to be covered to block the sun from them.
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:57 PM   #11
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OK, the weather is finally complying, so I've begun my striping project. I have the R/S stripes in place. and will (weather permitting) be tackling the other side this week.
I tried first to use the 3M rubber stripe removal wheel but since I had painted over the original stripes (about 16 year old at the time) and the wheel wasn't designed to remove paint, I found the wheel wearing faster than the stripes. Next, I tried a wire brush and then a wire brush with a propane torch. This worked, but took a long time. Finally, I went to a wire wheel, but then I re-discovered some areas I had done "body" work to b/c of a hole and some dents. I finally decided the corrugated aluminum would have to go. Well, it's still there, but my solution is to cover it altogether with new aluminum. True, there's no corrugations as with the original, but I'm very pleased with the result. Besides, this isn't a concours level '63 Corvette I'm working on!
I'm posting pictures with descriptions since I'm thinking since some of you are in possession of factory striping from the King family and have a trailer that will sooner or later be in need of new striping, you might want to avoid some of the mistakes I made.
I bought .027 ga. white aluminum which is about 12" wide from a seamless gutter supply store, then rented a 10' bending brake, the kind used for house exterior trim work. Since 10' was the longest brake they had, each piece had to be cut to that length. This wasn't a problem on the R/S since no piece measured more than 8' long, but I will have two joins on the L/S as there is a 22' run on that side. My plan is to mount the pieces first and then add the stripe in one piece over the three pieces of aluminum. The seams will be visible, especially where the white painted part shows, but it will have to be that way.

Here's my painted and now peeling stripes;


Here it is after wire wheeling to bare metal;


With the stripe applied to the aluminum cut to a 10-7/16" width (at least that's what worked on mine), I make the first bend which will be the bottom lip that slides under the old panel. After this, I made the second bend that completes the bottom "hook". See my note on this part below.


This shot shows the completed lower "hook" to the left and the lower of the two top bends to the right;


The second top bend is made by flipping to the white side and aligning the lower bend with the edge of the bending bar;


The top bend is made by bringing the main panel face parallel with the face above the top bend;


Here's the front panel complete although the front of the stripe will later be trimmed back and the "swooshes" added;




The biggest problem I encountered was on the two bends that form the lower "hook". Since I didn't want the panel to stand out too far from the side of the camper, I chose to make the second bend 1/2" past the first, BUT, the bender is designed to make two bends no closer than 3/4" apart. What was happening was that the bending bar was grabbing the aluminum past the first bend and pushing the panel further into the brake instead of bending the aluminum. Don't try to make any bends less than 3/4"! If I were to do this again, I'd make the bends 3/4" apart and use a tighter angle. Actually 45 degrees, which is what I used at the top would do it. Live and learn!
If anyone is interested in the exact measurements I used, just ask.
I'll post more photos when I do the other side.
Rich
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:19 PM   #12
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Rich,

That looks good from the pic's!!

I have used the house siding breaks before. Do not know if yours is like ours was but there was a hinge on the handle side. The handle being the part of the break you fold over. That hinge is pretty fat and is where the 3/4" requirement most likely comes in. A sheet metal break like used on HVAC ducts has a much tighter pivot action. And also much heavier and not as portable.

Thanks for sharing and looking forward to see the rest.

John
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:21 PM   #13
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I left out one photo I meant to include with the last post which shows that I applied a bead of Liquid Nails near the top so I wouldn't have to worry about aluminum panels flying off the camper at highway speed



Oh and if you'd like to see these photos in a larger size, go to the Photobucket link in my signature.
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:24 PM   #14
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Guess I should've read the note on the bar above the photos!
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